Gloss Fashion Marketing and Merchandising

Fashion Marketing and Merchandising Firm for Contemporary Designers and Boutiques

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Half of Success is Showing Up...



At a very successful company I used to work for, which I'll refer to as Andi James, the owner, Andi would always go to trade shows with the sales reps.

I am no less than positive most of the reps found this completely annoying. I mean didn't he trust them to do their jobs? And furthermore weren't there a million other things he could have/should have been doing than hanging around and giving buyers that fake European kisses on the cheek-- asking them about everything from their businesses to their kids.

Yes he was already very successful...his name was big but even like Mega star Beyonce (personally promoting her line at a trade event in the pic above), he always seemed to realize he was no bigger than the people who supported him.

In contrast I've seen many designers ship off their sample lines to a trade show in a big UPS box then wait by the phone to hear the sales rep either show and prove with some great orders or ramble on about how the show was slow and people just weren't buying.

The message in all this is to be involved with your showroom and the entire sales process.

The relationship with your showroom is a partnership but obviously an outside showroom is not your company. And if for whatever reason things don't work in the short or long term it will have been important to have always protected your interests.

So what are your interests?

1. Your Relationships. Andi went to those trade shows to build personal relationships with buyers--that could possibly outlast his relationship with the showroom. He made it clear that he appreciated their business and was there to personally stand behind his company. He understood his customers were his everything...much too important to be left entirely in the hands of another.

2. Your Insights. In most organizations the sales people are the biggest knowledge keepers. Yeah you can look at the numbers but the people on the front lines are the only ones who know the whole story. Why isn't this selling? What makes this piece so hot? The non-verbal cues, expressions, side comments they all add up to a full picture that can be translated into action steps to grow your business. Insert yourself in the mix and get these insights for yourself.

3. Your Visibility-- The press are a staple at trade events. They want to get good interviews and create interesting stories that can be turned around as quickly as possible. Would it be better for you...or perhaps the entry level sales assistant the showroom has dedicated to your line to help build intrigue, give quotes and secure press coverage? Don't leave it up to your sales rep or your press kit...go to the show and make your story come alive.

All this being said, of course there is a right way and a wrong way to do everything. Having a good relationship with your sales partners is of the utmost importance as well. You definitely don't want to piss them off prancing around like an uninvited diva.

Perhaps you only attend the largest events, and only stay for a few hours during peak traffic. Also talk to the sales manager about the best role for you to play....Silent observer? Special guest? "The designer wanted to travel here and personally greet our customers." Buyer thinks...what a nice touch..none of the other designers came... Hey I've always wanted to ask you..yada..yada..yada...

You get the picture. Play your position. You are the owner, which means at the end of the day the whole shebang is your responsibility. If things go left there is really no one else to blame. And even if there was you can't really take blame to the bank.

My bottom line--Take some time to stay personally involved in the sales process...you can't afford not to.

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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Your Top Model



Coordinating your first photoshoot can be a nerve-wrecking and costly experience.

Here’s a few tricks to help save you some time…money and mistakes…

1. Go With a Pro: While you may be tempted to use your cutest friend as your brand model keep in mind a highly experienced model can drastically improve the flow and timing of your shoot. At the minimum look for a semi-pro that may not be signed with an agency but has clocked some hours in front of a camera.

2. Work with an Agency: If you’re a savvy negotiator don’t be afraid to call on the top agencies like Ford and Elite. They have different levels of models and many times will negotiate costs based on the model’s need for experience/photos, timing and the notoriety of the photographer you use. Sites like modelmayhem.com are also a good resource for finding someone on a more minimal budget.

3. Get some Raw Pics: Not like that… But, you want to see your model in their current hair and no makeup…as they would appear on the set. Before the shoot date share these pics with your photographer as well as your hair and makeup person so they come prepared with everything they’ll need to turn her into a glamazon on shoot-day.

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Friday, October 31, 2008

Temptation Island



Ok lets face it...folks in the fashion industry can be very particular. We create these brands and we care about them...we want to protect them and we don't want to leave our "babies," with just any ol' retailer.

That means we have to discriminate, a bit when it comes to picking the stores we sell to. No matter how tempting it may be to imagine how black a new account could make our financial statements-- selling your brand too short...too soon can have a detrimental effect that just won't pay off.

Let me tell you a little story to illustrate my point....

A client of mine had these aspirations of creating a high end luxury lifestyle brand. She imagined her stuff in the windows at Barneys, on the racks of the finest boutiques, on the homepage of international online retailer net-a-porter.com. Her vision was crystal clear in her mind. She believed in it and was excited to see it come to life....

But as she sat at her first trade show she watched buyer after buyer pass her by... they'd glance...comment, maybe even take a few pictures... They seemed interested but they weren't buying....what was she supposed to do?

On the last day of the show, a slightly more mainstream department store paid her a friendly visit. They were interested and ready to write an order.

I mean they were by no means a luxury brand....but one order from them alone could pay for the cost of her show, save her from hustling for more accounts when she needed to be designing and even allow her to give her consultant (me), a much needed bonus for all my dedication.. hard work, brilliant insight and commitment... (I know that's right;).

And as much as I wanted and so deserved a little extra padding in my pocketbook I had to keep it real. The department store deal didn't make sense. Of course we had the option of revising the strategy...adjusting our pricing, going slightly more mainstream--- but it was only her first trade show. Was it really the time to sell out? Was an offer from one vendor offer enough to constitute a total change of plans?

Maybe eventually but not initially.

As you develop your brand you will sometimes have to resist the temptation of big business money...and just give yourself a chance to grow.

I advised that she stick to the program....the brand she wanted...the one she believed in....and the brand she worked hard to create with everything from imported fabric to the paper linen hangtags she loved that made for the perfect finishing touch.

So she took my advice and decided against the major retailer. However, soon after the tradeshow she was able to acquire about 10 niche brand building boutiques that were interested in finding the next big thing...not just stuff that was sold in (nose in the air)... mid-tier department stores!

Now keep in mind the orders of those 10 stores didn't even add up to the one order she turned down.

However--she wasn't trying to host a thanksgiving day clearance sale--she was trying to build a brand. That takes time. And that means being strategic as well as pacing yourself.

Soon after she acquired her first 10 stores without a showroom she was picked up by one of the top international showrooms for her product category...who has since been able to place her in niche boutiques all over the world. A lot more brand appropriate than being sold off to the highest bidder.

She's since been featured as a top emerging designer in major fashion organizations and publications including Vogue...Not her hometown paper but...Vogue.

The moral of the story--If you have a vision for your brand let people help you refine that vision but don't ever throw it out the window based on one tempting proposition.

If only for a little while...just believe--trust your gut and see what happens. It could be better than you've ever imagined.

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Friday, September 5, 2008

Are You Ready for Gift Bags?



Many designers would cut off their right arm and put it in a Grammy or Oscar awards giftbag as long as it was holding their product.

Participating in hot giftbags with award winning prestige are really no brainer.... You already know US Weekly, Life and Style and People Magazine are going to do a full page spread featuring the new swag of the stars. It's as close to guaranteed press as you can get.

However the average company is more likely to get inquires from a lot less well known events requesting free samples or promotional items to stuff their bags with.

To participate...or not to participate...that is the question. Well you'll start by weighing the probability that your potential customers or high profile celebrities will go to these events. There goes no-brainer #2. So what's next.....

Well...if you determine that you'll participate in the bag you need to next determine the product. Giftbags are great for beauty companies because they usually have small sample sizes and people like to try before they buy anyway.

But what about clothing? You certainly don't want to give away the 100-500 items PR companies usually request for giftbags...

In this event I suggest clothing companies develop some type of promotional item ahead of time that depicts their brand and has at least a little value associated with it. This would be a multi use product, with a long shelf life that you can buy a lot of at a lower price. You'll get a lot out of these items by also taking them to trade shows or give away to your retailers that they may also make it a gift with purchase when they sell your product.

To get these products you can work with a promotional products company such as macher.com to produce things like reusable packaging, notebooks, totebags or passport holders and luggage tags with your logo.

The bad news is that in producing promotional products you always walk the line of being cheesy. So you have to be careful and make sure everything you produce will embrace the same quality of your clothing brand. This is one of those things...that if you can't do it right. Don't do it at all. I'll make that my no brainer #3.

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Friday, August 1, 2008

Give me a Reason...



Shopping the other day I ran across the almost perfect bag. This sleek, glossy snake-skin number was just calling my name.....

Until.....

I turned it over and found a big metal plate that said "NINE WEST". This mid tier company had managed to turn a perfectly glamorous handbag into a promotional piece.

For me a potential customer-- through this ill placed logo, the company inadvertently created what I would call "A Reason NOT to Buy."

As you merchandise your line be careful to reflect on how even the smallest detail that may give a customer a reason to walk away.

Reasons not to buy can be disguised as cute little details, logos that don't yet carry brand recognition or female designs that are not undergarment friendly. Haven't you ever wanted to purchase something that would be perfect...only if.

Maybe my reason not to buy should have simply been that my $200 belonged in a mutual fund instead of a cash register. But hey...that's not the point....

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Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Buy Me Please....



Getting ready for MAGIC.....Take the time to prepare a KNOCK OUT buyer kit to seal the deal with potential customers. Here are some tips on what to include....

1. Company or Designer Bio
This doesn't have to be long...or read like the biography of Malcolm X. Make it light and dreamy...talk about what inspires you, the range of your collection or interesting design companies you've worked for in the past. Also...no need for a professional print job...print everything out on your company letterhead so you can easily change it as you grow.

2. Press Clippings
If you've been doing pre show marketing and were able to obtain any edits make color copies and add them into your buyer kit. Show buyers you've already been getting exposure so they know you're already on your PR game.

3. Line Sheets
A Must Have....Clear line sheets that make it easy for buyers to order and reference pricing. Line sheets like anything else really come alive in color. But if you're on a budget you may just want to do a color cover to spice it up a bit.

4. Style Matrix/Order One Sheet
Some designers have pricing on their line sheets which is my preference. If for some reason you don't want to do this make sure you have one document that contains all the information required to place an order. Put yourself in their shoes and see how easy it is to write out an order using your materials.

5. Color Cards
I love real fabric color cards. Although it can be tedious to cut little square pieces and paste them on cardstock...it can be totally worth it. Give buyers something to touch and feel once they leave your booth. But again I know you can't always make a dollar out of fifteen cents....if you don't have the budget color copies will certainly do.

6. LookBook or Color Pictures
Lookbooks like everything else it seems can be crazy expensive. If you don't have one believe me you're in good company. Some of the most successful companies I've worked with have never produced a lookbook and they're doing just fine. However, nice photography on a model is clearly going to help your product sell better than a flat sketch. Make sure you have some photographs in your kit...whether they're on the cover of your line sheet or on a postcard.

7. Order Forms


Finishing up....
Compile all of this info a branded folder. You can easily make these yourself by buying glossy white folders and getting some stickers printed with your company logo.

Believe me...having a professional buyer kit as a new company is not common at all.... so a good one is sure to help you rise above the frey.

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Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Smash Your Brand!


Do you think you could recognize a Coke bottle even if it was smashed into a hundred pieces?

The branding book "No Logo," by Naomi Klien calls it the "Smash Test." The author believes you can test the strength of a brand by the ability to break it to bits and for it still to be instantly recognizable....... even if none of those bits actually bear reference to the brand's name.

Interesting.....

The theory is illustrated by the fact that most consumers can still spot a Coke bottle even in seemingly simple remnants of thick blown glass, white lettering and a shiny red cap.

A brand's colors, feel, shapes, textures and mood amongst other things all work together to create it's authenticity.

So let's try it... I won't say the name yet but let me describe some "pieces," for you and then ask you to tell me what or who I'm talking about.

Emerald Green-a mermaid--popular music-- plush lounge chairs and a bulletin board with community postings.

Sounds like Starbucks to me. The clues may have seemed obvious but that's what they're supposed to be....obvious distinctions that allow you to tell Starbucks from the less busy/less fortunate coffee shop down the street that's serving the same espresso only in with plain white tumblers.

So how strong is your brand? Try to smash it and see what elements can actually survive....continuing your brand message even when the name tag is removed.

A brand is an ensemble performance where the whole is much greater than the sum of all it's parts. Smash yours and see if it's still there.

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Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Brand Power


I am reading a branding book right now that I just love! It's called "Killer Brands" by Frank Lane and it illustrates my thoughts on naming and differntiating your brand in such an easy way I'd like to share a portion of it with you.



Imagine I am setting you up on a date. I tell you about six guys. In essence six brand choices.

Jack...Bob...Mike...Rudy...Jim...and Rob

Which name do you remember most readily?



Well I remember "Rudy," the quickest....and according to the author so do most people. Rudy as a name is distinctly different than the typical Jack..Rob's and Bob's. Currently thinking of a name for your new company or brand....make a point to use your name--your most visible brand property to help you stand out from the crowd.

The second part of his example deals with the power of focus. A lot of us are very scared to hang on to one attribute about our brand. What if we're all about color...and also all about fit....and also use a one of a kind cotton from the south of France. How can we choose one of these attributes to play up more than the rest...they're all very appealing and conventional wisdom would tell us that combined they just would make the most perfect garment ever.

But we have to prioritize and isolate. The viability of this strategy is illustrated in Frank's next dating example.

Remember I am setting you up with one of these guys. Here are the details......

  • Jack...Divorced, Loves Kids and Plays Polo
  • Bob....Single, Works in Finance and Makes a Lot of Money
  • Mike...Physically Fit, Played Pro Football and Sells Real Estate
  • Rudy...is Kind, Sensitive, and also Sells Real Estate
  • Jim....Divorced, Loves Golf and Wants Kids Soon
  • Rob....Makes a Lot of Money, Loves Women and is Difficult to Tie Down

Now Look away from the computer for 20 Seconds....


Don't Look back at the list....


Remember what you can about the six choices and if you can only choose one, which one do you remember and how did you remember them?

Like most readers I found it very difficult to remember and decide....

Now Lets Consider a different list where he gives one focused point on each guy.

  • Roy...Is Rich
  • Wilson...Plays Jazz
  • Max....Is a Painter
  • Phillippe....Owns a Vineyard
  • Josh...Is a World Traveler
  • Pete....Is Hard to Tie Down

Now look away again for about 20 seconds.


Which one would you want to be set up on a date with? Which one amongst the choices do you remember most?

Well if you don't remember exact names you may remember someone loves Jazz...and another is really rich and another is a world traveler. If any of these attributes match your interest the "brand/guy" will come to the top of your mind. Even with less information these guys resonate a lot more with one clear attribute than they do promoting multiple attributes.

Lesson learned...the less information we are given the more likely we are to remember it.

If you're in the process of building or improving your brand get this book... "Killer Brands...Create and Market a Brand that Will Annihilate the Competition." by Frank Lane. It's a fantastic read!

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Wednesday, November 7, 2007

It's Not Easy Being Green


There is a commercial for Ford trucks where a dad is taking his "Green conscious," daughter to school when she suggests he get with the program and buy a hybrid. The dad replies "This is a hybrid....I just never thought to mention it." The implication is that with his Ford Hybrid he is doing the responsible thing but it's something inherent...a real part of him as opposed to a bumper sticker promotion.

It's clever because the ad plays the card of being green because it's the right thing to do...not because it is popular.

Right now I am noticing a lot of companies that are "all about," organic cotton...hemp...natural fibers. That will have people after a while saying ok...of course you do...why wouldn't you? The newness will fade and pesticide free cotton will soon hopefully become the norm.

I do believe a certain level of promotion is necessary in order to keep up the momentum of the 'green' or any other important movement to bring it into commonplace. However from a long term branding perspective (for any other brand besides the Prius) I suggest more insidious marketing initiatives that don't necessarily say "Buy from us...we're doing the right thing...and that's good enough!"

Its important to make your socially responsible initiatives more a part of your culture and less a part of your tagline.

Look at it this way..... At some point "being green," will be just as important as not having your product produced at a sweatshop.

You want your brand to evolve and not expire. Truly basing your brand on an environmental strategy that would survive the long term would mean something more intense...such as being dedicated to developing organic cottons and dyes as part of your vision.

If your intent is to simply use organic cotton...use it...mention it but don't make it your everything. You will quickly become common if this is your central branding attribute.

As a clothing company focus more on what's truly unique about your brand such as your insight for colors...prints...or design details.

Doing Good is Good. Do it! Then Do You!

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Monday, November 5, 2007

Out of Our Minds....




The book I'm reading this week is called "Out of our Minds...Learning to Be Creative," by Ken Robinson. Although Ken is a little verbose and has an affinity for words most people have to look up in the dictionary, this book brings up a lot of interesting points regarding the art of creativity.

One point I particularity like, explains how a common yet faulty assumption is that being creative should in some way be isolated to the arts. His rationalization includes the thought that wherever you find great success stores whether in business, medicine, sports or rocket science creativity is usually one of the most active ingredients.

So if you're a designer and consider yourself a “creative,” instead of an “analytical,” type don't shy away from practical seemingly less interesting business matters because you don't consider it your "territory," or "expertise." I encourage you to extend your creative juices into some of what you may feel are less glamorous matters of your organization.

Step away from the sketch pad and take some time to work "on," your business....not necessarily "in," your business.

Carve out a day to brainstorm on new business initiatives...or think about how you may be able to creatively increase your profit margin by using new materials or create ways to boost morale amongst your employees and outside contractors.

If you're creative in any way which most all of us are...expand that creativity to more areas within your business. Running a healthier more profitable company should be all the inspiration you need.....

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Friday, November 2, 2007

A New Type of Customer Support


We all know getting into some of the major stores such as Barney's, Saks and Neimans new Cusp stores can be great exposure, volume and really express the legitimacy of your brand.

But now more than ever you'll see smaller pointedly stylish local boutiques are becoming the new barometer for what's golden in the contemporary market.

My advice...see what retailers tickle your brand's fancy and start your sales efforts at the top of the boutique food chain. If you don't...hence deciding to let your sales efforts run themselves you'll find yourself placed in a lot of stores that are less than......and manage to make yourself a little less desirable.


Example: Think after school special...new girl in school decides to go out with every guy that asks for her phone number. Well she probably will never be able to date the captain of the football team. Unfortunately she lost her appeal.

But lets take it the other way around....New girl, lands the captain of the football team, notwithstanding him being totally blind she's instantly branded as the most beautiful thing walking... resulting in a lot more options if they should ever should every break up
.

Excuse me for my teenybopper example but the point is to have a strategy and realize that it is in fact one of the most important parts of your brand launch. You'll want to be able to proudly publicize your store list and have your sales in essence do some marketing for you.

So where are these stores? There are boutiques all over the country you'll find are mentioned again and again in the press. Browse through the pages of US Weekly, Life and Style, Vogue, Elle, InStyle....you'll quickly see who is making a name for themselves and are creating a new definition of customer support.

Here are a few of my favorites.....

Mini Majors:
Scoop NYC and Intermix

LA Local Legends:
Fred Segal, Lisa Kline, Kitson

Other Fresh Faces:
Milk, Presse, Diavolina, Madison

Web Masters:
Shop Bop, Active Endeavors

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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Sharpening the Saw


The only thing I really miss about working in a large corporate environment other than paid time off, stock options, employee discounts and a 401K would have to be learning from the smart and dynamic people that exist in that type of arena. I miss things like watching the way the CEO would help rework the collection changing it from drab to fab with just a few strokes, getting advice from a superior I respected or team meetings where everyone had a different expertise and perspective to share.

Author Steven Covey in his book The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People refers to continuing education as “Sharpening the Saw.” And although in a corporate environment that SAW is sometimes used to stab people in the back:)….Lifelong learning is something that we all should learn to embrace.

Tonight I teach a web marketing workshop at a resource center called Fashion Business Inc. in downtown Los Angeles. In addition to sharing what I know and learned (the hard way at times), it is just another opportunity for all involved to network, share woes, successes and ideas with other fashion business owners.

I know its late notice but as Chuck Willorary says if you happen to be in the Los Angeles area and want to join our live studio audience please contact Fashion Business Inc at 213.892.1669 or www.fashionbizinc.org.

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Thursday, August 2, 2007

The Tipping Point


"The Tipping Point by Malcolm Gladwell discusses that moment....that element.... that one thing that tips the scale and takes something from being virtually unknown to becoming the talk of the town. Word of mouth from a marketing perspective is the essence of the "buzz" factor and gives product a credibility money can't buy.

One group of importance that typically leads these cult phenomenons, Gladwell describes as the "influencers." The influencers are people that speak with authority (whether they really have any or not), love to know everything and generally speaking…just enjoy talking. We all know someone like that…and if you don’t believe you know someone like that you are probably the someone like that other people know.

The big mouth excuse me…influencer in my life is my best friend….I’ll call her “Jane,” to protect her privacy although her name is Jill. Anyways, “Jane,” takes the utmost pride in knowing things…..anything…everything. People like her are a niche marketers dream because they are passionate…full of energy and don’t require a dime of your marketing budget. Educating the rest of the unwitting world on the greatest boutique or hot new designer is payment enough. If “Jane,” loves something she spreads the word quicker than wildfire…and with an evangelistic flair that’s convincing enough to sell heat lamps in the desert.

I have to warn you not to get “influencers,” confused with the simple "early adopter." Early adopters are trendsetters but not necessarily the most forthcoming individuals. Simple early adopters are like the people who when you ask them where they get something from…it’s always "a gift." They take little pride in spreading the word. These people are good in other ways but are not quite as valuable as the infulencers.


In niche marketing the trick is to get your hands on the" Janes" of the world.. If they love it.... they can help build the integrity of your brand faster than an ad in Lucky or a Billboard on Sunset Blvd. If you are ready to start an epidemic with your speciality brand put yourself on the influencers radar.


You may ask where you can find these folks? Well you may find them ranting on their blog or someone elses....... pictured in the friends section in 1 out of 5 myspace pages or working the room at an high profile event. They are out there but you have to seek them out. The point is don’t be afraid to do the little things to reach out to the influencers for your market. Niche brands don’t have to harass magazine editors for product placement or spin their wheels trying to dress someone thats shot by the paparazzi....or even beating up the paparazzi for that matter.

Why not start with the little people with big mouths….its a longer ride but their words are just strong enough to carry you to “the tipping point.”

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Saturday, July 28, 2007

Say NO More....


I taught a web marketing seminar this Thursday hosted by Fashion Business Inc. located in“lovely,” downtown LA. One of the audience members whom I'll refer to as "George," asked the pointed question "Do retailers get upset when a wholesale company they buy from decides to sell online?"

This is something I’ve been asked time and time again….and something I’ve had to personally address as an Ecommerce project manager. It’s a very rational assumption, and if you’re a smart business person trying to cover all your bases it is definitely a reasonable question to give a thought to. “A Thought” notice the singular tense. I thought of answering that question with one word which would have been “NO," but of course I had to elaborate.

So, Let’s think about this….. I’m a loyal retail buyer, purchasing your product by the hundreds...so why in the world do you feel like you need to open a fabulous online store that will make MY customers drop me like a wet rag and buy from you?. .

The good thing is most retailers aren’t that insecure. Their store is about an experience they create which your product is only a portion of. The essence of a good boutique is the collection….where the buyer produces something where the whole is bigger than the sum of all parts.

Think about Intermix, Scoop, Shopbop. These successful stores’ merchandise mix, marketing and presentation make them successful. Whether or not you decide to sell on line is typically not an invasion on their customer or the sales of a particular product. Between the stresses of running a retail store they really shouldn’t even have time to give a damn. (excuse my french;)


Recently many luxury wholesalers such as Bottega Venata, Gucci and Diane Von Furstenberg have gotten the picture and pulled the veil off of their online stores.

Selling online has become a great branding technique and is also a revenue stream in the sense that transfers you into becoming a multi channel enterprise. In short Ecommerce can be a phenomenal way to strategically grow your business.

We did talk about it quite a bit. "George," understood and followed up with this question. ”What about taking about selling it for like 10% less than other retailers since you have a bigger margin???” My gosh “George,” just wanted it all. Now that my friend is equivalent to launching a website that has your middle finger on the front of it...then sending it to all of your current and prospective accounts. The answer to that question…..is actually four words “no…no and absolutely not.” And I'll say no more about it.

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Thursday, July 19, 2007

Revenge of the Junk Mail





I get so much junk mail I dread going through it. Credit Card Offers, Coupons, Postcards all trying to sell me one thing or another. You know what I do? I take the whole stack and how ever many I can fit in my shredder I go to work …shredding…shredding…shredding….it literally wears me out…

However, I know as marketers of contemporary fashion we hate to think of anything we send potential clients as junk mail…. they want to hear from us....right? Direct mail is one of the most effective marketing strategies around….especially when you don’t have a potential prospects email address.

But, in more cases than not direct mail can be lost in the shuffle, lost in the mail or immediately placed in the "circular file." (translation...the trash)

So…. how do you get your message read in a sea of riff raf? Here’s a nifty little trick I wish I could take the credit for but I read it in this wonderful little book. “Don’t Worry Make Money, “ by Richard Carlson.

The trick is…Fed Ex it! Fed ex your Press Kit…Catalog or Line Sheets to a potential big account. Who can resist the heavy cardboard of a sleek fed ex envelope? Ripping that little tab….oh what fun! The package literally screams…Open Me and Open Me Now!

I urge you next time you desperately want to get the attention of a big account….go Fed Ex. It’s expensive…but if what’s in the package is worthy…it will pay for itself many times over.

Guaranteed.........

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Monday, July 16, 2007

Designer Disrespect


When it comes to life and love why do we always believe our worst reviews?

--- Carrie Bradshaw

I’ve heard endless horror stories from designers ready to pack up and move back to Kansas….rejected from trade shows, bashed in editorials and getting laughed at by buyers. um hum....for real.


I remember one story a prospective client told me about trying to sell her wares to a trendy West Hollywood Boutique. Her excruciating tale described how the buyer did everything short lifting up her Gucci pumps to physically kick out of the store. Ouch.

However, contrary to the ever so common Devils Wears Prada tales I’ve experienced an influx of sweet and helpful people in the fashion industry. Then again I started my career at the Gap…not exactly high fashion. But to be obviously rude there was as good as signing your own pinkslip. It's hard to be a bitch making khakis.


I say this to say it’s difficult to remember everyone big in this industry for the most part was once Very Very small. Giorgio Armani started as a buyer with no formal design training, Ralph Lauren started selling ties, C and C California launched out of a California garage and Anna Sui shipped out of her New York apartment for most of the 1980’s. Everyone whips out their humble beginning for the tear jerker, “I’ve made it,” story. However some of us tend to forget about it until the time is right.

So Designers…don’t believe your worst reviews. Chances are if you would buy your product and you’re not a resident of Outer Space there is a possible market for your collection. Keep your heads up, get the help you need and most importantly no matter what you do never ever stop believing:)

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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

One Step at a Time....



A lot of companies are convinced that if they don't sell everything under the sun they are leaving money on the table. Quite the contrary. Customers appreciate focus. It builds confidence and helps them to think, "You know that great handbag designer?" "She's doing the wallets now." It's a very logical process and simply makes sense for everyone.

If you try to throw everything out at once...potential customers get paralyzed. You risk becoming common... a jack of all trades. The customer starts to think, "We don't even know you." "What's your specialty...your niche?"

By introducing one product or group of products at a time a designer has the opportunity to establish themselves as a competent manufacturer and a recognizable name. Through developing a following and focusing on your skills you can become a well paid specialist instead of a general practitioner.

As examples go Louis Vuitton one of the most successful luxury companies in the world started with luggage, Juicy Couture branded those infamous tracksuits that were so popular we never want to see them again and Diane Von Furstenburg's wrap dress she introduced way back when continues to rake in dough for her as I type. Don't look at where these companies are to gage how you want to launch....look at how they started. That will give you a better vantage point of where to start.

Focus can also help you tremendously from a production and cost perspective...less pattens, less time fewer vendors to manage. Trust me, do it right and people will get it......

So don't let focus frighten you....as Martha Stewart's favorite saying goes..."it's a good thing."

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Monday, July 9, 2007

Inspired to Buy



Ok marketing the iphone is not the exact same as marketing fashion. But I admit but do have to take a second to tip my hat to the amazing marketing job those folks have done over there at Apple. Our industry, for the most part isn’t about week long lines and switching networks or the general fiasco that preceded the iphone launch. However one thing that fashion can take from this nifty little gadget and the Apple company in general is the lengths people will go to once they are inspired.


I thought about it a while ago when I was working with one client on how they could gain more business from their existing retailers. I sat there dreaming up incentives, planning a media calendar, magazines they could advertise in, even an itemized budget…. then it occurred to me that for the most part customers don’t really don’t really need all that. People don’t really need a $500 dress, a designer yoga mat or a handbag that is equivalent to the down payment of a Midwestern home.

People just want to be happy…they want to be inspired to find the necessity to buy your product. This is not to say they don’t appreciate quality or a designer’s style acumen and attention to detail. It’s just to say that people are typically looking for a return on investment that is much more emotional than financial.

So no you definitely don’t have to be a self help guru to know you can’t buy happiness…however the average company who aspires for long term success needs to pay attention to the psychological focus of their customers.

Before you launch your next marketing campaign think about what you’re really pushing. Are you a wedding gown company selling a beautiful dress or are you selling girlhood dream of a beautiful bride? Are you a shoe designer selling Italian leather pumps with stiletto heels or are you selling shapely legs that turn mens heads and other women into green eyed monsters.

It’s up to you but trust me whether you decide to target a customer in their hearts or their minds…the pocketbook typically follows.

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Saturday, June 23, 2007

The Right Position


As I mentioned in the previous post Positioning is all about finding your spot in the marketplace. Finding this special spot is one of the first and most important steps in creating your brand.

Let's do a quick example. Let’s say I want to start a basic contemporary female tee shirt company Gloss Tees. I plan to sell to stores like Nordstrom and sit in their SAVVY section with designer denim and other contemporary tee brands.

Within that environment my direct competition includes James Perse known for their super soft luxury cottons and C and C California famous for their sheer layering effects and lean fit. Both are priced around the same as my company Gloss Tees ranging from the $35 to $70 price point.

Ok, great…so if I consider C and C and James Perse as my biggest competitors how can Gloss stand out?

Well, my tees are made with a special lycra that has a shaping effect for a smooth silhouette. That's my niche. I have to make a point/position this so that prospective consumers clearly understand why I am different and consequently the only option for a great fitting tee.

See, even though Gloss Tees will still be reminiscent of any basic shirt, by focusing on the shape I put it out there that while I am not the only choice for a tee shirt in the SAVVY department but I am the only choice for a tee shirt that gives you a great shape. I've crated a category of one.

That's what any good brand needs to do. Create a catagory of one. Think about how you can pull out the best in your product and create a category for your business.

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Sunday, June 17, 2007

Branding Fashion


The hands down most exciting part of launching a fashion business is creating the brand.

In creating your brand you are essentially giving birth to its personality and character plus building brand equity you’ll be able to cash in on for years to come. If everything goes according to plan you’re able to establish a strong emotional connection that makes your consumers feel as if they can substitute if necessary you but never replace you.

One reoccurring theme I’ve noticed amongst branding experts has been the dire importance of positioning as the first step in creating a dynamic brand.

Positioning is who you are in the context of everyone else in the picture. For example in the context of children sometimes parents inadvertently brand their kids as “the smart one”…or “the funny one.” According to my wonderful parents, I was excellent at Writing while my brother was good at Math and my sister was “The Creative One.” Now my sister was no Picasso and I’m definitely no Hemmingway but, in the context of our family, the people who mattered most, that’s was who we were. Just the same as a brand you have to find your place in the midst of your competition.

A book I highly recommend is “The Breakaway Brand,” by Francis Kelly. It details the unique positioning of some of the world’s best brands. The author describes how the Southwest Airlines staff wears khaki shirts and baseball caps to exemplify cheap no frills travel, while Jet Blue uses its leather seats, DirecTV and slightly lower fares to grab the position of the affordable luxury airbus.

In fashion when we think H and M we typically think inexpensive yet quality fashion which is further embedded by their affiliation with icons such as Stella McCartney and Madonna.

Get it? You must define yourself…make yourself special or you can very well become trivially unimportant and end up on a sale rack at Dress Barn.

So in the over-flooded world of fashion how do you start carving your spot? Start by taking a look at your competition. Who are you literally, “positioned,” with in stores and how are you or how can you become different?

We’ll talk about some examples in some of the upcoming posts. But start thinking about who you are and most importantly who you can be.

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Thursday, May 31, 2007

The Art of the Email

I love J.crew but that company used to blow my email up. It seemed as if every day they felt like they had some new product or campaign or sale they wanted to email me about. I did myself a favor and unsubscribed.

That brings me to my topic of email strategy. We talked about the importance of website analytics and understanding your conversion rate in the previous post. Now I want to discuss how to boost your conversion of viewers to buyers by the highest Return On Investment marketing tool available...yes folks you got it..."The Email!"

With email marketing you want to have a strategy. You don't want people to unsubscribe case and point my J. Crew situation. However, you want to reach out to your customers as much as possible with the most relevant information...that keeps them engaged and most importantly not totally annoyed.

The best way to do this is to use a system such as campaigner by gotcorp.com to manage your email database. This easy to use online service will allow you to see who's opening your emails, when they're opening them , if they click through to your site and forward it on amongst other things. There are so many things you can learn about your customers..and email marketing makes it easy and cheap as long as you know how to analyze the information you have and put it to good use.

So let's isolate one point to get you started in creating your email marketing strategy. I advise that any serious marketer with a database over 100 people learn how to segment their customers. Segmenting your customers means putting them in a category based on who they are or their behavior patterns. That way you can always send them emails that are most relevant and that they are more likely to open. Relevant information helps your prospective customers to Trust you....you will establish integrity...and people will be happy to see your business in their inbox.

Example.... Let's say you sell men's clothes, childrens' clothes and baby clothes. It will behove you to take a look at your sales and see exactly who's buying what. If one of your good customers buys a lot of merchandise and it's always mens product...why bother them with an email about children's clothes. Yeah, they may have a niece...or little cousin or something that the decide to give a gift to but the reality is their core purchases have been in mens clothing. You don't want to inundate them with emails about kids...and baby clothing to the point where they're hearing a little bit too much from you and realize that you don't even understand who they are. Bottom line is people in in retail and in life like to feel special.

Once you group your customers according to their purchase patterns. You can market to them accordingly sending each group what they would be most interested in. You'll find yourself with higher click through rates and less unsubscribes. People will know you are approaching them specifically and have a good offer that will be of their interest. If they think they are part of one of your big endless campaigns that runs every week.... it won't be long before you end up unopened...and in the junk folder. What a sad way to go:(

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Wednesday, May 30, 2007

A Boost for your Online Boutique...

If you're really looking to boost the sales in your online store ask your web designer about web analytics. Not now....but right now!

Analyzing your site can make a world....yes...yes...a WORLD of difference in your sales and conversion rates (the number of viewers that become buyers).

There's a lot you can learn from your web analytics but If I had an online boutique I would start by learning my conversion rate. Here's how you do it.....

Let's assume that you have a decent number of visitors coming to your site. Decent is relative-- depending on the product you sell... so if you're a small boutique and you have 100 visitors per day take a second to be happy with that.

Within that second you want to find out how many of your viewers are actually buying, to calculate your conversion rate.

Take the # of visitors and divide it by the number of buyers.

It goes like this: 3 buyers/100 visitors= 3% conversion rate

Most apparel companies hover around 3% conversion, which is commonly known as the industry standard. Find your number. Oh, and make sure you look at your "unique visitors," and don't look at your "hits." This is a common mistake as hits are how many times someone clicks anywhere on your site so one person may account for 50 hits. If you want a true number of how many individuals are coming to your site ask your web designer to give you your"unique visitors," number.

Converting your existing visitors to buyers thus raising your conversion rate can happen a lot quicker and is way more cost effective than marketing to find new customers. You still want to find new visitors but starting with your exsiting customers is the best strategy.

So...now that your know your conversion rate how do you raise it??.....Email Marketing is #1 and it has the absolute highest ROI (return on investment) of all marketing vehicles. We'll talk more in my next post.... Go Ahead and find your conversion percent today...then we'll pick up where we left off!

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