Half of Success is Showing Up...

At a very successful company I used to work for, which I'll refer to as Andi James, the owner, Andi would always go to trade shows with the sales reps.

I am no less than positive most of the reps found this completely annoying. I mean didn't he trust them to do their jobs? And furthermore weren't there a million other things he could have/should have been doing than hanging around and giving buyers that fake European kisses on the cheek-- asking them about everything from their businesses to their kids.

Yes he was already very successful...his name was big but even like Mega star Beyonce (personally promoting her line at a trade event in the pic above), he always seemed to realize he was no bigger than the people who supported him.

In contrast I've seen many designers ship off their sample lines to a trade show in a big UPS box then wait by the phone to hear the sales rep either show and prove with some great orders or ramble on about how the show was slow and people just weren't buying.

The message in all this is to be involved with your showroom and the entire sales process.

The relationship with your showroom is a partnership but obviously an outside showroom is not your company. And if for whatever reason things don't work in the short or long term it will have been important to have always protected your interests.

So what are your interests?

1. Your Relationships. Andi went to those trade shows to build personal relationships with buyers--that could possibly outlast his relationship with the showroom. He made it clear that he appreciated their business and was there to personally stand behind his company. He understood his customers were his everything...much too important to be left entirely in the hands of another.

2. Your Insights. In most organizations the sales people are the biggest knowledge keepers. Yeah you can look at the numbers but the people on the front lines are the only ones who know the whole story. Why isn't this selling? What makes this piece so hot? The non-verbal cues, expressions, side comments they all add up to a full picture that can be translated into action steps to grow your business. Insert yourself in the mix and get these insights for yourself.

3. Your Visibility-- The press are a staple at trade events. They want to get good interviews and create interesting stories that can be turned around as quickly as possible. Would it be better for you...or perhaps the entry level sales assistant the showroom has dedicated to your line to help build intrigue, give quotes and secure press coverage? Don't leave it up to your sales rep or your press kit...go to the show and make your story come alive.

All this being said, of course there is a right way and a wrong way to do everything. Having a good relationship with your sales partners is of the utmost importance as well. You definitely don't want to piss them off prancing around like an uninvited diva.

Perhaps you only attend the largest events, and only stay for a few hours during peak traffic. Also talk to the sales manager about the best role for you to play....Silent observer? Special guest? "The designer wanted to travel here and personally greet our customers." Buyer thinks...what a nice touch..none of the other designers came... Hey I've always wanted to ask you..yada..yada..yada...

You get the picture. Play your position. You are the owner, which means at the end of the day the whole shebang is your responsibility. If things go left there is really no one else to blame. And even if there was you can't really take blame to the bank.

My bottom line--Take some time to stay personally involved in the sales process...you can't afford not to.

Temptation Island

Ok lets face it...folks in the fashion industry can be very particular. We create these brands and we care about them...we want to protect them and we don't want to leave our "babies," with just any ol' retailer.

That means we have to discriminate, a bit when it comes to picking the stores we sell to. No matter how tempting it may be to imagine how black a new account could make our financial statements-- selling your brand too short...too soon can have a detrimental effect that just won't pay off.

Let me tell you a little story to illustrate my point....

A client of mine had these aspirations of creating a high end luxury lifestyle brand. She imagined her stuff in the windows at Barneys, on the racks of the finest boutiques, on the homepage of international online retailer net-a-porter.com. Her vision was crystal clear in her mind. She believed in it and was excited to see it come to life....

But as she sat at her first trade show she watched buyer after buyer pass her by... they'd glance...comment, maybe even take a few pictures... They seemed interested but they weren't buying....what was she supposed to do?

On the last day of the show, a slightly more mainstream department store paid her a friendly visit. They were interested and ready to write an order.

I mean they were by no means a luxury brand....but one order from them alone could pay for the cost of her show, save her from hustling for more accounts when she needed to be designing and even allow her to give her consultant (me), a much needed bonus for all my dedication.. hard work, brilliant insight and commitment... (I know that's right;).

And as much as I wanted and so deserved a little extra padding in my pocketbook I had to keep it real. The department store deal didn't make sense. Of course we had the option of revising the strategy...adjusting our pricing, going slightly more mainstream--- but it was only her first trade show. Was it really the time to sell out? Was an offer from one vendor offer enough to constitute a total change of plans?

Maybe eventually but not initially.

As you develop your brand you will sometimes have to resist the temptation of big business money...and just give yourself a chance to grow.

I advised that she stick to the program....the brand she wanted...the one she believed in....and the brand she worked hard to create with everything from imported fabric to the paper linen hangtags she loved that made for the perfect finishing touch.

So she took my advice and decided against the major retailer. However, soon after the tradeshow she was able to acquire about 10 niche brand building boutiques that were interested in finding the next big thing...not just stuff that was sold in (nose in the air)... mid-tier department stores!

Now keep in mind the orders of those 10 stores didn't even add up to the one order she turned down.

However--she wasn't trying to host a thanksgiving day clearance sale--she was trying to build a brand. That takes time. And that means being strategic as well as pacing yourself.

Soon after she acquired her first 10 stores without a showroom she was picked up by one of the top international showrooms for her product category...who has since been able to place her in niche boutiques all over the world. A lot more brand appropriate than being sold off to the highest bidder.

She's since been featured as a top emerging designer in major fashion organizations and publications including Vogue...Not her hometown paper but...Vogue.

The moral of the story--If you have a vision for your brand let people help you refine that vision but don't ever throw it out the window based on one tempting proposition.

If only for a little while...just believe--trust your gut and see what happens. It could be better than you've ever imagined.

Will You Be My Sales Rep?

Finding a sales rep as a new brand is no easy feat. You have to find a rep that believes in your brand and is willing to nurture it to its full potential.

It really takes warm-up time to build brands up…and in those times you nor your sales rep will be making any “real,” money so to speak. In fact you may want to plan on losing some.

That said…you as well as the rep you choose must be willing to be patient and prepared to deal with a bit of uncertainty as you climb the proverbial success ladder together.

To find a showroom/sales rep in Los Angeles I recommend looking up brands you’d like to share a showroom with on the LA fashion district website directory. This directory contains all of the lines showing in “The Intersection,” which includes (The LA Mart, The New Mart and the Gerry and Cooper Buildings.)

When you search this directory look for lines you may be compatible with not competitive with. You want to find a showroom that does not house direct competitors but that the same stores that buy the lines they carry may also be interested in your products as well.

Once you find some leads…walk by…take a peek in and see if it suits your company. If it does ask if they are accepting new lines…and if they would take a meeting with you.

If you get to the meeting stage it’s time to put your best foot forward. If you even think you want them…sell yourself and your new company like nobody’s business…get them to really want you.

Start the meeting by showing the the rep completed sales samples, marketing materials and sharing the long term vision of your company. Reps love to see that you have a long term vision and a plan to get there. Your communication skills will be key. You want to vividly display the passion and commitment you have for making your business grow.

You also should highlight stores you’ve gotten into without a showroom (yes..you should be trying to get yourself in at least a few brand building stores before taking on a showroom), press coverage you may have received, mention investors so they understand your business is secure and don’t forget to bring up your past work experience to give them insight into your competency as a businessperson.

Once you have them where you want them….It’s time to start negotiating things like commission percentage, rent fees and the term of your agreement.

The better you present yourself the more flexible the showroom will become. Give them the reason to believe they have much more to gain…than to lose by taking you under their sales umbrella. Even though showrooms tend to have a bit of a chi-chi…boo-boo snob appeal at the end of the day they are in the sales business and need you as much as you need them.

Present a great product…a great strategy and a strong business acumen and carrying your line can quickly go from getting a straight “NO,” to becoming a “NO-brainer.”

So don't be scared...Find the showroom you want and go after them with everything you've got...

The Color of Money....

The right color can determine whether the products you’re producing or buying for next season fly off the racks or end up under a big red clearance sign.

But how are you to know whether the hot colors of this season will be trendy a year from now?

You don’t. For that you have to ask the experts.

There are people that actually research color trends ahead of time, so you don’t have to spend days fretting about things like whether something may sell better if it’s in olive or emerald green.

The secret of major retailers and design houses is that they use color forecasting services like the Los Angeles based, Design Options to make sure the collections they’re producing are not only beautiful but merchandised to sell.

For a minimal cost Design Options will supply you with palettes of the hottest upcoming colors for women’s, kids, men’s, lifestyle and home furnishings up to a year in advance.

With over 20 years of color prediction services under their belt they have a strong track record of “getting it right.” Taking advantage of services like theirs can help ensure you “get it right,” as well….

Inquire about the latest colors and Subscribe to Design Options free newsletter at www.Design-Options.com

Buy Me Please....

Getting ready for MAGIC.....Take the time to prepare a KNOCK OUT buyer kit to seal the deal with potential customers. Here are some tips on what to include....

1. Company or Designer Bio
This doesn't have to be long...or read like the biography of Malcolm X. Make it light and dreamy...talk about what inspires you, the range of your collection or interesting design companies you've worked for in the past. Also...no need for a professional print job...print everything out on your company letterhead so you can easily change it as you grow.

2. Press Clippings
If you've been doing pre show marketing and were able to obtain any edits make color copies and add them into your buyer kit. Show buyers you've already been getting exposure so they know you're already on your PR game.

3. Line Sheets
A Must Have....Clear line sheets that make it easy for buyers to order and reference pricing. Line sheets like anything else really come alive in color. But if you're on a budget you may just want to do a color cover to spice it up a bit.

4. Style Matrix/Order One Sheet
Some designers have pricing on their line sheets which is my preference. If for some reason you don't want to do this make sure you have one document that contains all the information required to place an order. Put yourself in their shoes and see how easy it is to write out an order using your materials.

5. Color Cards
I love real fabric color cards. Although it can be tedious to cut little square pieces and paste them on cardstock...it can be totally worth it. Give buyers something to touch and feel once they leave your booth. But again I know you can't always make a dollar out of fifteen cents....if you don't have the budget color copies will certainly do.

6. LookBook or Color Pictures
Lookbooks like everything else it seems can be crazy expensive. If you don't have one believe me you're in good company. Some of the most successful companies I've worked with have never produced a lookbook and they're doing just fine. However, nice photography on a model is clearly going to help your product sell better than a flat sketch. Make sure you have some photographs in your kit...whether they're on the cover of your line sheet or on a postcard.

7. Order Forms


Finishing up....
Compile all of this info a branded folder. You can easily make these yourself by buying glossy white folders and getting some stickers printed with your company logo.

Believe me...having a professional buyer kit as a new company is not common at all.... so a good one is sure to help you rise above the frey.

Brand Power

I am reading a branding book right now that I just love! It's called "Killer Brands" by Frank Lane and it illustrates my thoughts on naming and differntiating your brand in such an easy way I'd like to share a portion of it with you.



Imagine I am setting you up on a date. I tell you about six guys. In essence six brand choices.

Jack...Bob...Mike...Rudy...Jim...and Rob

Which name do you remember most readily?



Well I remember "Rudy," the quickest....and according to the author so do most people. Rudy as a name is distinctly different than the typical Jack..Rob's and Bob's. Currently thinking of a name for your new company or brand....make a point to use your name--your most visible brand property to help you stand out from the crowd.

The second part of his example deals with the power of focus. A lot of us are very scared to hang on to one attribute about our brand. What if we're all about color...and also all about fit....and also use a one of a kind cotton from the south of France. How can we choose one of these attributes to play up more than the rest...they're all very appealing and conventional wisdom would tell us that combined they just would make the most perfect garment ever.

But we have to prioritize and isolate. The viability of this strategy is illustrated in Frank's next dating example.

Remember I am setting you up with one of these guys. Here are the details......

• Jack...Divorced, Loves Kids and Plays Polo
• Bob....Single, Works in Finance and Makes a Lot of Money
• Mike...Physically Fit, Played Pro Football and Sells Real Estate
• Rudy...is Kind, Sensitive, and also Sells Real Estate
• Jim....Divorced, Loves Golf and Wants Kids Soon
• Rob....Makes a Lot of Money, Loves Women and is Difficult to Tie Down

Now Look away from the computer for 20 Seconds....


Don't Look back at the list....


Remember what you can about the six choices and if you can only choose one, which one do you remember and how did you remember them?

Like most readers I found it very difficult to remember and decide....

Now Lets Consider a different list where he gives one focused point on each guy.

• Roy...Is Rich
• Wilson...Plays Jazz
  
• Max....Is a Painter
• Phillippe....Owns a Vineyard
• Josh...Is a World Traveler
• Pete....Is Hard to Tie Down

Now look away again for about 20 seconds.


Which one would you want to be set up on a date with? Which one amongst the choices do you remember most?

Well if you don't remember exact names you may remember someone loves Jazz...and another is really rich and another is a world traveler. If any of these attributes match your interest the "brand/guy" will come to the top of your mind. Even with less information these guys resonate a lot more with one clear attribute than they do promoting multiple attributes.

Lesson learned...the less information we are given the more likely we are to remember it.

If you're in the process of building or improving your brand get this book... "Killer Brands...Create and Market a Brand that Will Annihilate the Competition." by Frank Lane. It's a fantastic read!

It's Not Easy Being Green

There is a commercial for Ford trucks where a dad is taking his "Green conscious," daughter to school when she suggests he get with the program and buy a hybrid. The dad replies "This is a hybrid....I just never thought to mention it." The implication is that with his Ford Hybrid he is doing the responsible thing but it's something inherent...a real part of him as opposed to a bumper sticker promotion.

It's clever because the ad plays the card of being green because it's the right thing to do...not because it is popular.

Right now I am noticing a lot of companies that are "all about," organic cotton...hemp...natural fibers. That will have people after a while saying ok...of course you do...why wouldn't you? The newness will fade and pesticide free cotton will soon hopefully become the norm.

I do believe a certain level of promotion is necessary in order to keep up the momentum of the 'green' or any other important movement to bring it into commonplace. However from a long term branding perspective (for any other brand besides the Prius) I suggest more insidious marketing initiatives that don't necessarily say "Buy from us...we're doing the right thing...and that's good enough!"

Its important to make your socially responsible initiatives more a part of your culture and less a part of your tagline.

Look at it this way..... At some point "being green," will be just as important as not having your product produced at a sweatshop.

You want your brand to evolve and not expire. Truly basing your brand on an environmental strategy that would survive the long term would mean something more intense...such as being dedicated to developing organic cottons and dyes as part of your vision.

If your intent is to simply use organic cotton...use it...mention it but don't make it your everything. You will quickly become common if this is your central branding attribute.

As a clothing company focus more on what's truly unique about your brand such as your insight for colors...prints...or design details.

Doing Good is Good. Do it! Then Do You!

The Importance of Being Ernest

I got my first car at 16...it was a used hatchback my father purchased from our neighbor down the street. It was only $3,000 and I promised my mother I would pay them back. I remembered being so thrilled when they said yes.

A successful business woman, the evening before my big purchase my mother handed me a short contract to sign regarding what I agreed to and the terms of payment. She knew me all my life...I was responsible and even at 16 I'd had a steady job for almost 2 years. Where was the love???

Years later I deeply understand the need for contracts and agreements. While managing a high end label I once chased one of the most exquisite boutiques in New York for over 4 months just to pay their bill-- on product they'd probably already sold. They finally paid the flat amount....no interest...no penalties....no financial regard for the endless phone calls...letters and other administrative costs it took us to collect payment on terms that we "believed," we'd agreed to.

My point is that in this industry it is easy for us to get infatuated with each other. People are impressed with each others offices, soho boutique addresses and that they carry $2,000 miu miu bags. That goes a long way with us. But it should only go so far.

As a result people get screwed...they get pissed! They decide to never sell to that boutique again...or buy from that designer again...or deal with that supplier again. Relationship over everybody moves on...bitter and through!

It's unfortunate because most of the time a violation of trust is simply a violation of "understanding." Well drafted, simple contracts and agreements help everyone to understand, set expectations and literally puts all parties on the "same page." Good agreements are nothing to be scared of.

I encourage you to swallow that one uncomfortable moment with new buyers and walk them politely through your terms of sale..... With vendors after you've come to an understanding on price and deliverables provide them a written explanation of what you expect...why not?

Fear that's why....If you're new all this may seem a little over the top. People often get uncomfortable with contracts...they need to have their cousin's husband who's a lawyer to look at it....they have to find a lawyer. It seems like it may be more trouble than it's worth. The worst feeling is when the other party gets uncomfortable with you. I mean how do you do business with someone you don't trust?

The Answer According to Donald Trump: Never do business with someone you don't trust. I agree (as if he needs that).

However, with a contract you are simply outlining the trust. It doesn't have to be a book....it doesn't always have to be "from," or "looked over," by an attorney. Legitimately you could scare people off especially for a smaller project.

But you have to write something...however brief it has to be an understanding. A clear understanding that both parties are willing to agree strongly enough that they pick up that black pen and they say. Yes, this is what I said I will do. Where do I sign!

An ounce of prevention is a pound of cure...when it doubt write it out.

A New Type of Customer Support

We all know getting into some of the major stores such as Barney's, Saks and Neimans new Cusp stores can be great exposure, volume and really express the legitimacy of your brand.

But now more than ever you'll see smaller pointedly stylish local boutiques are becoming the new barometer for what's golden in the contemporary market.

My advice...see what retailers tickle your brand's fancy and start your sales efforts at the top of the boutique food chain. If you don't...hence deciding to let your sales efforts run themselves you'll find yourself placed in a lot of stores that are less than......and manage to make yourself a little less desirable.


Example: Think after school special...new girl in school decides to go out with every guy that asks for her phone number. Well she probably will never be able to date the captain of the football team. Unfortunately she lost her appeal.

But lets take it the other way around....New girl, lands the captain of the football team, notwithstanding him being totally blind she's instantly branded as the most beautiful thing walking... resulting in a lot more options if they should ever should every break up.

Excuse me for my teenybopper example but the point is to have a strategy and realize that it is in fact one of the most important parts of your brand launch. You'll want to be able to proudly publicize your store list and have your sales in essence do some marketing for you.

So where are these stores? There are boutiques all over the country you'll find are mentioned again and again in the press. Browse through the pages of US Weekly, Life and Style, Vogue, Elle, InStyle....you'll quickly see who is making a name for themselves and are creating a new definition of customer support.

Here are a few of my favorites.....

Mini Majors:
Scoop NYC and Intermix

LA Local Legends:
Fred Segal, Lisa Kline, Kitson

Other Fresh Faces:
Milk, Presse, Diavolina, Madison

Web Masters:
Shop Bop, Active Endeavors

The Art of The Sale

I’ve never fashioned myself a huge salesperson but yesterday I had a epiphany……or what Oprah likes to call my "ah- ha," moment as I was discussing a new product concept with one of my clients.

You see, to support myself though college I sold everything from magazines over the phone to sweaters at Sears. I HATED every moment of it and I just knew it was not for me. However as I was explaining this new line my client smiles and says in her most serious voice, "You know you should be a Sales Rep.”

I immediately dismissed it…”No, that’s not me; I’m more behind the scenes in marketing.” Also I just happen to really love this stuff. As soon as the words came out of my mouth I saw the difference.

I Believed.

I knew this product was going to be well made, super soft and something I couldn’t wait to wear myself. It excited me and I was positive it would work for my client as well.

And, Folks there’s the difference!

For you Designers who feel the way I felt, and are scared to do your own sales…why not give it a try? The hardest part is finding the sale prospect…and what better way than warming the sale up through direct mail, web marketing and other non intrusive sales prep techniques. You know how to do it! Send your mailings...and follow up via phone. Even though people may be unnerved by the interruption they can only hurt you so much through the phone lines.

So if it’s your first season out to bat and you’re a little gun shy because “You’re not a salesman,” Just remember...if you love your product.....All things are possible when you believe:)

Seek First to Understand....

A lot of small companies merchandise their websites based solely on how they feel. What they feel will sell....what they think looks good. Larger publicly traded companies have to have a little bit more to lean on than pure hunches...they have to move with facts. Simply because if they don’t perform up to par not only are they disappointed in themselves like a small business owner would be as well, but they get ripped by the boss, who got spanked by the CEO who was blasted by the stockholders. It’s a domino spanking…so to speak.

The only saving grace in this situation is loosely referred to as the ‘numbers’. What do the numbers say?? Not after the fact…but before hand…before decisions are made… inventory purchased and placed randomly on a first, second or third tier page. There is something that can be learned from this for small and mid sized companies interested in getting to a higher level. Mistakes will be made...but with a keen understanding of your online consumer behavior your foresight can become closer to 20/20 and less of a shot in the dark.

Now I do understand, numbers can be nerve wrecking….and like a movie they don’t really have your full attention until you start to see a story develop. However while numbers by themselves can be annoying… the stories they tell can be interesting and informative.

On your website, wouldn’t it be interesting to discover if 75% of people who got product to the shopping cart never check out…then you notice they exit the site once the shipping prices are revealed. How much money did you just throw away with that little oops??

Or what if the 2^nd half of the page gets viewed by only 30% of viewers…….yet it contains some of your highest margin items…go figure the gross margin is so low. But hey...Knowledge is power....with the facts in hand you can start taking action...turn these situations around and boost your numbers immediately.

The rest of the good news is getting this type of information is easier and cheaper than ever. Google Analytics is a great free tool that helps you discover what’s going on behind the scenes of your site. There are also a lot of other paid options like webtrends.com and websidestory.com that have sophisticated features and a staff to help you put things in perspective.

Whatever you do.... give your numbers their due diligence early. If you don't neglect them in the planning phase...and they are less likely to turn red at the end of the day.

Designer Disrespect

When it comes to life and love why do we always believe our worst reviews?

--- Carrie Bradshaw

I’ve heard endless horror stories from designers ready to pack up and move back to Kansas….rejected from trade shows, bashed in editorials and getting laughed at by buyers. um hum....for real.

I remember one story a prospective client told me about trying to sell her wares to a trendy West Hollywood Boutique. Her excruciating tale described how the buyer did everything short lifting up her Gucci pumps to physically kick out of the store. Ouch.

However, contrary to the ever so common Devils Wears Prada tales I’ve experienced an influx of sweet and helpful people in the fashion industry. Then again I started my career at the Gap…not exactly high fashion. But to be obviously rude there was as good as signing your own pinkslip. It's hard to be a bitch making khakis.

I say this to say it’s difficult to remember everyone big in this industry for the most part was once Very Very small. Giorgio Armani started as a buyer with no formal design training, Ralph Lauren started selling ties, C and C California launched out of a California garage and Anna Sui shipped out of her New York apartment for most of the 1980’s. Everyone whips out their humble beginning for the tear jerker, “I’ve made it,” story. However some of us tend to forget about it until the time is right.

So Designers…don’t believe your worst reviews. Chances are if you would buy your product and you’re not a resident of Outer Space there is a possible market for your collection. Keep your heads up, get the help you need and most importantly no matter what you do never ever stop believing:)